Sequoia National Park – Honeymoon Adventure Part 1
Let me start this post by explaining that I am breaking my usual format a bit for all of the “Honeymoon Adventure” posts. I have broken the posts out into multiple parts that seemed to work better together. It was less overwhelming for me this way, and for you. This is laid out in a day by day fashion as I spent time journaling every night of this trip.
So, let me start this journal by stating that there is no way that I can find suitable words for all that we have experienced and learned on this trip. It’s one of those life changing times that touched both of us in ways that can only be felt deep within.
There are so many vivid memories: The flutter in my heart when we rounded one of the switchbacks on Rt. 198 and the first distant sight of snowcapped mountains took over our windshield. The way my chest thudded with excitement as we hiked the final distance up a trail leading to an overlook so expansive you had to turn your head side to side to take it all in. The eerie perspective of how small you feel standing in a forest of giant sequoias bathed in misty fog. The way the near-full moon reflected its iridescent light off of the snowy peaks of the mountains. The sense of teamwork we felt as we successfully navigated the crazy streets of San Francisco. Peace rushing over us again as we exited the freeways and saw the Pacific Ocean crashing below us CA Hwy 1. The way we danced next to the fire in a dim wooded campsite. The warmth that bathed our coastal campground as the sun peaked through the clouds blazing everything a brilliant yellow as it set over the ocean. The way we held hands walking onto the beach in Monterey until high tide forced us to run away from it as the water gripped at our heels. It’s those moments that will stay with me and have changed me. But, let me start at the beginning and share what I can of our journey because it was f*cking fantastic!!
Saturday May 23rd – Our first day of travel has been as easy as it could be. Despite having been up since 3:00am, well over 14 hours deep into our travels, our spirits are high. We picked up our camping gear that we had shipped via UPS and filled the back of the car with groceries for the next few days. But we will sleep well tonight, antsy with the excitement of the adventures to come. As we came into the mountains outside of Sequoia, I became squirmy and giddy as a child. And this is nothing compared to what I will see in the next two weeks! We settled in to a hotel in Three Rivers, just outside of Sequoia National Park. We organized and repacked our food and gear, eager to get out into the woods.
Sunday May 24th – Today is our one year wedding anniversary. Celebrating this is what our trip is all about!
We left our hotel, full bellied from breakfast after taking our last hot, comfortable shower for the next three days and headed into Sequoia National Park via CA Rt 198. Being a holiday, the entrance was busy and slow going. But that afforded us a longer view of the amazing sights to come. Around every bend of the winding, hair pin switchback turns was a new spectacular mountain peak. True mountain peaks at elevations higher than what we are used to seeing in PA look strong and majestic against the blue, cloud spotted sky. They carry the shadows of the fog deeper in their valleys, and their crests beam brighter with the reflection of the sun.
To say that the views were aw-inspiring is a major understatement. Seeing snowcapped mountains for the first time in my life was truly amazing. I was blown away. I had to do a double take to make sure that what I was seeing was not just clouds, but actual mountains.
We arrived at our campground – Buckeye Flat. I chose this campground because it was near the entrance of the park, but also because the only way to get to it is by traveling along a small, private road. It was secluded but accessible. Once we came to our campsite, I knew that my research had paid off. Site 22 sat at the top of Middle Fork of the Kaweah River.
At this time of year, it was a rushing river, and the sounds of the water flowing was tremendous. Many of the sites had very satisfying layouts and would have suited us well. We set up camp and headed further along General Highway to explore Giant Forest.
We slowed to a stop along a roadside parking area and stared up at Moro Rock. The clouds surrounded the peak and we couldn’t wait to climb it in the days to come. No photos will do justice for the peaks and valleys in the surrounding scenery.
We decided to hold off on seeing most of Giant Forest until the crowds had died down and made our way to a parking lot along the highway to see General Sherman Tree. The air up here was thinner at 7,000 ft and we slowly made our way along the trail. Fog had rolled in heavily and the atmosphere was damp and chilly compared to where we had been just 30 minutes before.
The Giant Sequoias felt surreal – out of a movie made only in our imaginations. The entire forest felt as though it held many deep secrets. The sheer size of them was astonishing. They stood beautiful and majestic among the dark pine trees and smooth rocks.
After leaving (the crowds were HEAVY and annoying, to say the least), we decided to explore the river near our site.
Paradise Creek Trail connects to our campground, and was located just a few sites over from us. The trail was easy and peaceful. Along the way, we stumbled across many swimming holes and plan to take a dip the following day when the sun is high in the sky. Down one path, we came to a dead stop – a snake was lying across the trail. Not wanting to upset it, we turned around as it seemed like it was time to head back the way we came. All in all, our first day in the park was eventful and beautiful.
Monday May 25th
Our first night in our campsite was quiet and uneventful. I read us to sleep as the sun set. We woke early and had breakfast before heading north to Kings Canyon. The sun was warm and bright at this time of morning and we had the road mostly to ourselves. We stopped many times along General Highway to see the many breath taking views. The mountains change with the sunlight and at this time of day, they were crisp and well lit.
Right before Dorst Campground, we noticed people stopped along the road. We finally caught a glimpse of a black bear. Peacefully eating in a meadow just below us was a large bear.
I was shaking with excitement. It was beautiful and stoic and we sat and watched it for quite a while. Afterwards, we stopped at Wolverine to use the payphones and check in with our family.
Continuing north, we stopped at Kings Canyon Overlook and Redwood Overlook. Once again, no photos that we took could do justice to what we were witnessing. Snowcapped mountains high in the clouds over shadowed the pine covered mountains within our reach. About 2 hours into our trip, as we continued north, we decided to stop at Grant Grove and visit Panoramic View. A short 0.6 mile walk to the vista was well worth it, even at 7,000ft up. The view was spectacular. A haze had taken over the mountains making photos less memorable but the images in my mind will last forever. The clouds touched the top of the mountains and we sat in awe.
Once back to our campsite we quickly changed into our swimsuits and headed along the foothill trails connected to our campground. We stopped at a beautiful waterfall that dumped cold mountain water into a clear pool. One at a time, we made the plunge into the icy water. It was freezing but so worth it. Afterwards, we found the skin of a snake recently molted and we were glad to be out of the water, sunning on the rocks. We stayed for an hour on those rocks laughing and reminiscing about all of the activities of the day. This is the life.
Tuesday May 26th
Waking especially early this morning, the woods were still dark and chilly from the night before. We made the 11 mile trip up to Giant Museum and turned onto the road to Moro Rock. We reached the parking lot around 7:30am and began the climb up the mighty staircase to the top of Moro Rock.
It was not a long hike, but it was not without many breaks to stop and stare at the mountains surrounding us. Holding firmly onto the handrail – the only thing stopping us from falling thousands of feet to the forest below, we gazed in awe. A beautiful hummingbird flew over the fuscia mountain flowers taking in its nectar.
Once at the top of the windy, narrow and sometimes downright terrifying staircase, we stared off at the Great Western Divide. This moment was one that literally took my breath away and my eyes filled up. I have never seen anything so brilliantly amazing in my life. This was heaven on earth. The mountains with peaks still white from winter’s snow reached far above the line of morning clouds and I stared off with blurry eyes. Every bit of the short hike was worth it for this view. It was truly specatcular.
Unfortunately, Tom’s vertigo kicked in, especially on the way down and he clung tightly to the rocky handrail.
After Moro Rock, we continued down the mountain to Tunnel Log. My concern that our GMC Terrain would not fit through was unfounded as we stopped for a photo in the middle of the fallen Giant – many feet stood between the tree and the top and sides of the SUV. So much for our free upgrade – HAH.
We continued to Crescent Meadow and took the short loop around the beautiful fields of lush green grass and flowers that were pleasantly surrounded by tall, thin pine trees.
At the first bend we spotted a black bear meandering through the meadow. We followed the trail to get a better view.
We took the short cut off to visit Tharps Log and marveled at the ingenious design of the cabin that was built into a fallen Sequoia.
Once we continued onto Crescent Meadow path, we came to a gathering of people. There were now 3 black bears in the field just below us. I was so busy watching them that I didn’t even notice the other wildlife right near me. As I turned around to find Tom, a small buck stood silently just feet behind me. We crossed the meadow along a fallen tree and stopped to have lunch.
Next, we stopped at Big Trees Trail.
This is a short walk along some massive Sequoias that turned out to be extremely beautiful and peaceful. Standing amongst such massive natural giants was unreal. We continued down the path and we came to a mother black bear and her 3 cubs.
We walked well around the trail to avoid them and stopped to watch them along with some other photographers. We were within 20 yards of these monstrous wild animals. It was amazing. Standing and watching them eating and playing in the meadow will never leave my memory. As we left Giant Forest we talked the entire ride back to the campground about how exciting our day was.
Once back at our campsite, we ate a late snack and headed down the river again. We found a beautiful rock to lay and sunbathe and gazed up at Castle Rock soaking in the California sun knowing that our last day in Sequoia National Park was amazing.
Finally, we decided to drive up to Middle Fork Trailhead. This was an extremely winding, dirt road. The switchbacks were terrifying at best and absolutely stupid to drive along. My greatest fear was that we would run into another car along this road and have to reverse to one of 3 very few and far between turnouts. The road was barely wide enough for our SUV and panic quickly kicked in. Once at the trailhead, the view was worth the stress (I think…). We could see a whole new view of Castle Rock – The sun shown high on the mighty granite formation.
I cant say that the drive back was enjoyable in the least or that I was happy we made the journey as we made the terrifying turns. We sang silly songs to each other as we came inches from the edge of the road. The car has dirt scars of us hugging the rocks and staying as far from the edge as possible.
We happily poured a drink after that strenuous drive and prepared our dinner for our last night in Sequoia National Park. How you leave a place like this, I don’t know. But I guess the best way to do it is knowing that you have Yosemite to look forward to the next day.
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